Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Wednesday, June 23, 2010 The Trek to Tofino
Set out from Nanaimo on Vancouver Island's east coast for Tofino on the island's west coast. Locals refer to the west coast as the "wild side." It's more rugged, colder, windier, foggier than the east coast and occasionally in the path of a tsunami. It's also sparsely populated, much less environmentally disturbed, and absolutely beautiful. But I can never just go somewhere. The list making, schedule driven person that I am has to find something to do on the way to make the journey even more worthwhile. And so I note that the North Island Recovery Centre is only a couple miles off the Tofino route and just my kind of place. The Centre takes in injured or ill wildlife for rehabilitation and, hopefully, return to the wild. They also take in some imprinted animals and some animals whose injuries are so profound that they cannot be rehabilitated to a degree that would allow them to be returned to the natural environment. The recovering animals cannot be viewed real time or interacted with to minimize the risk of imprinting; however, they have a huge aerie for the eagles (lots of space for exercise) that has a series of "portholes" fitted with one-way glass that allows a peek. There were three juveniles and one mature eagle in the aerie and they looked to be recovering nicely. The "permanent" residents are in enclosures that allow for viewing but that are constructed to appear as natural as possible and provide cover for the animal if it chooses not to be viewed. Took a few pics of some of these guys and they made me so sad. They're all there because of some bad experience at the hands of humans. Second pic is of two eagles - gun shot wounds that won't allow them to return to the wild. Even behind "bars" they are so proud and regal. Next pic is of two barred owls raised by humans (imprinted) who then decided they couldn't care for them. The owls lack the hunting skills to survive in the wild. The centre has a very good public education area and outreach as well and they also have a large pond where waterfowl come and go and turtles proliferate and where the next few photos were taken. Check those crazy turtles. I could watch them for hours, oozing up onto the log only to slip off the other side or disrupt their bretheren and the stability of the log and everyone goes back into the drink. Then the scenario repeats. They're tireless. Ducks in abundance. Back on track to Tofino on Hwy 4 and headed for Cathedral Grove, second intermediate stop. Cathedral Grove is a stand of old growth Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir actually located in MacMillan Provincial Park but easily accessible from parking (limited) on the side of Hwy 4. I'm extremely lucky to find a parking spot, tourists everywhere and business is brisk. Take an hour to stroll the park trail and marvel at the trees and ferns (this is temperate rain forest) and try to imagine what it must have looked like to the first Europeans that hit this area when the entire region was old growth. As in Stanley Park, the trees are so massive that I can't get far enough away to take pics that reveal their size. Included are a few feeble attempts. The ferns look like the cinnamon ferns of East Texas - on steroids. See pic. It is a rainforest after all. Pic after the ferns is of tree remains referred to as Giant's Grave. In 1972 vandals set fire to this 700 year old, 15 ft diameter, 233 ft tall red cedar. It had to be cut down to keep the fire from spreading. Last pic in the grove is of a springboard tree. Note the large notches. Loggers would place planks into the notches to serve as platforms where they stood to cut above the thick, difficult lower part of the tree. I continue west on Hwy 4, passing through Port Alberni where, as advised, I take adavantage of the last "cheap" gas before the coast where everything is priced for the tourists. Don't be fooled. There's no cheap gas in Canada. The road becomes narrow and extremely winding. Hang on St. Christopher on the passenger side. The views are to die for and I try to shoot a few pics, one handed, through the windshield. Too dangerous. One disadvantage to traveling alone - no navigator to pull photo duty. Pull into the Tofino and find the Bella Pacifica camp ground where I spend $50 for a space with electricity so that I can spend the night in the van cause it's about 50 degrees and raining and I'm not puttn up the tent. Plus side is that I'm square on MacKenzie Beach facing the water. Last photos are the view from the campsite. Now that's worth $50. Imagine if you threw in a little sun - maybe tomorrow. Very last photo is from the beach back to the van/lodging.
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