Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Friday, July 2, 2010 Glacier National Park
Slept a little late after all the Canada Day activities then loaded up and headed for Glacier National Park. On the way into the park there's a pull-off that allows a view of Rogers Pass (first pic), an important pass in the Selkirk Mountains that allowed the Canadian Pacific Railroad to make it through the range and continue west across BC and on to the Pacific. While gawking the pass and surrounding amazing scenery, I noticed a black and iridescent blue bird having his way with someone's lunch on a nearby picnic table. See next pic. I showed the pic around and found out that it was a Steller's Jay. We don't have them in the southern US, but they are related to the common Blue Jay as you can see by the crested head and body shape. He definitely had that "in your face" Jay attitude. Love that bird. Continued on to the park information center where there was a group of tourists huddled around something at the edge of the sidewalk. Lots of oohing and aahing in lots of languages and cameras clicking madly. Made my way through the crowd to find a fat little ground squirrel accepting handouts from the tourists and posing for photos. It's burrow was right at the edge of the sidewalk leading into the visitor center - conveniently located. I got into the spirit of the moment and found some bread in the car. (I know you're not supposed to feed the park wildlife. There are signs everywhere. One more thing to burn in hell for, but you'd have done it too.) Couple of still shots then the video is the little bugger eating from my hand, otherwise known as evidence. After getting advice from the park attendant, I decide to hike Sir Donald Trail (8 km round trip) because it starts at the Rogers Pass National Historic Site (RPNHS). The RPNHS is comprised of the remains of Glacier House, a luxury hotel built by the Canadian Pacific Railway(CPR) along the siding on the west side of the pass. The CPR was no slouch at finding ways to make a buck and they built several of these "siding" resort hotels along the line (Banff Springs Hotel in Banff where I will be in a few days is another). The place was amazingly opulent for its time and for truly being in the wilderness. It was built so that most of the rooms had a view of what was, at the time, called the Great Glacier (now it's called the Illicillewaet Glacier, what's left of it). The CPR imported Swiss mountaineers to guide their wealthy patrons from Glacier House into the surrounding mountains and several of the trails in the area (including Sir Donald) were cleared by the guides. Pics of interpretive sign and foundation remains. The CPR recommended that the Canadian government build parks along their line in BC and Alberts and, basically, that's how Glacier, Yoho, and Banff National Parks came to be. This effort was modeled on the Northern Pacific Railway's relationship with Yelowstone Park to the south in the US. So I spend a happy hour or so reading all the interpretive signs along the path through the site and studying the foundation remains trying to figure out how in the world the CPR managed to build such a facility in this narrow little valley below the pass. The Sir Donald trail was great!! The park trail guide lists it as a difficult trail, and the elevation gain was pretty rigorous for a coastal girl, but it paralleled the Illicillewaet River for a distance which provided some beautiful views - thought I'd go deaf from the roar of the meltwater fighting its way downstream - whitewater for sure (first water pic). The remains of the CPR trestle across the river are also visible from the trail (pic). Took a short side trail to see the "meeting of the waters" - where a side stream enters the Illicillewaet (next pic). Eventually the trail leaves the river and climbs through forest to an open alpine meadown at the base of the peak. Photos from the trail included. Note the sign about bear habitat. I think most people think that you would encounter bears in the forest, but it's in the open spaces where you're most at risk. When I got to the meadow you can believe that I was singing and whistling and clapping my hands and making a complete fool of myself. Hey Mason, note the pic of the small stream. It feeds into the Illicillawaet River but has no name so I named it Mason Creek in your honor. :-) I drive into Golden for the night, one tired but happy hiker.
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